Au Fil de l’Or at the Musée du Quai Branly
The exhibition “Au Fil de l’Or” (Golden Thread) at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris explores the historical and cultural significance of gold in fashion. Spanning millennia and continents, from ancient Rome to modern China by way of Algeria and India, it showcases how gold has been integrated into textiles to symbolize power, prestige and artistry. The exhibition includes more than 300 objects, among them the oldest known examples of gold used in fashion: gold appliqués from 5,000 B.C. from the Bulgarian city of Varna and a braid from what is now Syria that dates back to 3,000 B.C.
While the exhibition centers on gold itself, it expands the concept of “golden” by including visually similar materials. These include natural golden-colored silk from Cambodia, sea silk derived from Mediterranean clams, and 20th-century synthetic fibers like Lurex. The exhibition thus highlights humanity’s long-standing fascination with gold's glittering quality.
Designers and artisans through the ages, from Roman and Byzantine weavers to Chinese and Persian artisans, developed increasingly sophisticated techniques to incorporate gold into fabrics. Gold was not just a decoration but a symbol of luxury and power, reserved for elites and used to create intricate garments. These traditions are echoed in garments from regions including India, Indonesia, the Middle East and Japan, illustrating the global nature of gold's appeal in textile arts.
The exhibition also includes some iconic haute couture creations by some of the biggest names in fashion including a 1996 dress by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and an ensemble from 2004 by John Galliano for Dior. Interspersed throughout the exhibition are 14 spectacular creations by Beijing-based designer Guo Pei. Her designs, including an intricately embroidered Chinese bridal gown and a gold-threaded silk evening dress requiring over 20,000 hours of work, bridge the past and present in dramatic fashion.
The final section of the exhibition honors the renowned embroidery house Lesage, showcasing about 50 embroidered pieces created for top fashion houses like Yves Saint-Laurent, Balenciaga and Givenchy. These works not only celebrate French haute couture but also reflect global influences in their techniques and designs.
"Au Fil de L’Or" is a fascinating and informative exhibition. Having recently visited the spectacular Dolce & Gabbana exhibition at the Grand Palais I enjoyed learning more about the history of gold in fashion and how those gold threads are actually made.
Au Fil de L’Or. L'art de se vêtir de l'Orient au Soleil-Levant is at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris until 6 July 2025.