Masterpieces from the Galleria Borghese at the Musée Jacquemart-André

To celebrate its re-opening after more than one year of renovation work Paris’s Musée Jacquemart-André has organized an exhibition showcasing around forty masterpieces from the collection of the Galleria Borghese in Rome. I had never actually visited the Musée Jacquemart-André so this was a good occasion. As a matter of fact I haven’t visited the Galleria Borghese either, because I wasn’t able to obtain a ticket on both of my trips to Rome. A maximum of 360 people are admitted to the museum at a time, which is why tickets are hard to get.

The Musée Jacquemart-André and the Galleria Borghese have much in common. For one thing, both are housed in a former private mansion. The Musée Jacquemart-André is housed in a building that was constructed towards the end of the 19th century. The interior has been restored to its former glory and I enjoyed seeing the artworks in a residential setting, as opposed to the white walls of a museum. This is also what I like about the Mauritshuis in The Hague.

The Villa Borghese, which now houses the Galleria Borghese, was built between 1607 and 1616 by Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1577–1633), a nephew of Pope Paul V (1550–1621). Over the years Scipione Borghese acquired a large collection of works of art, by legal or other means. In 1607 he confiscated the paintings in Cavalier d’Arpino’s studio and in 1608, during the night of 18 and 19 March, he had Raphael’s “Deposition” removed from the convent of San Francesco a Prato in Perugia and brought to his residence. It must be said that Scipione Borghese had excellent taste and a fine eye for talent, for the collection contains masterpieces by Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio and Bellini. Following his death his heirs continued collecting art. At the beginning of the nineteenth century the then Prince Camille Borghese sold (gave is probably the better term) several hundred sculptures to his brother-in-law, Napoleon Bonaparte, most of which are now in the Louvre. In 1902 the Borghese family sold the villa and its museum to the Italian State.

The exhibition currently at the Musée Jacquemart-André is exactly what it says: a selection of masterpieces from the Galleria Borghese. In addition to household names like Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio and Rubens, the organizers also included some lesser known artists such as Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo Bassano. I don’t recall having seen any of these works before, because they rarely leave the Galleria Borghese.

I had expected the exhibition to be popular, but I was unprepared for the rooms to be packed. Had I been aware of this beforehand, I would have adjusted my schedule to visit early in the morning on a weekday, rather than around noon on a Friday. As a result, it was challenging to obtain a clear view of some of the pieces on display. Every time I stepped back to appreciate one of the larger canvases, another visitor would promptly fill the space, obstructing my view. In situations like this I always find myself torn between my ingrained politeness towards others and my own desire to fully experience the artwork. I ended up leaving a bit sooner than I'd wished, because I couldn't find the peace of mind to closely examine and enjoy the works on show. Maybe one day I'll get a chance to visit the Galleria Borghese itself.

Masterpieces from the Borghese Gallery is at the Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris through 5 January 2025.