Jasper National Park is the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies, extending over 11,000 square kilometres. I had booked a full-day hike on the Athabasca Glacier and spent nearly seven hours on the ice. Even so we only made it to the first icefall. I would have loved to go further, to explore the crevasses and to see what lies beyond. My hike to Mt Edith Cavell, one of the most beautiful in the park, was cut short by an aggressive grizzly bear. I thought it wise to turn back. I drove the Icefields Parkway, which connects the towns of Jasper and Lake Louise, in both directions and it is indeed a stunning drive.